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Birgitta Helmersson

Bow Top Hack PDF Immediate Download - for ZW Cropped Shirt, Birgitta Helmersson

Bow Top Hack PDF Immediate Download - for ZW Cropped Shirt, Birgitta Helmersson

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This hack is based on the ZW Cropped Shirt pattern. The neck and centre front edges of the top are finished with a binding and close with thin ties. The sleeve features gathers at the hem with a split and thin ties to close. 

Please note: you will need to purchase the ZERO WASTE CROPPED SHIRT PDF pattern size ONE to complete this hack. The BOW TOP HACK is a PDF download that includes all additional instructions to make this garment. There are no templates included in this pattern as you will be using the same templates included in the ZW CROPPED SHIRT PATTERN.

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner. 

Recommended Fabric: Use a light weight cotton or linen in a width of between 110 - 150cm / 43 - 59”. The length/usage required is based on the fabric width you are using, refer to the CUTTING PLAN A and B for more. You will also need quite a lot of bias binding strips cut for the binding and ties. If you want this to match allow for a little extra fabric on top of the main layout to cut your own binding from.

Sizing: This is a ONE SIZE garment, determined by the fabric width used. It comes with two different cutting plans allowing you to use both narrow and wide fabric widths. 

Choose which plan to use based on the FABRIC WIDTH you are using.

CUTTING PLAN A is suitable for narrower widths, 110-115cm / 43-45”. This layout is suitable for a bust circumference of up to 115cm / 45” (this includes a generous amount of ease). If you want to make this suitable for a larger bust you can add to the length of the cutting plan the amount extra that you need. The instruction booklet includes more details on how to do this.

CUTTING PLAN B is suitable for wider widths, 120-150cm / 47-59”. The size of this garment is determined by the fabric width. See below for the maximum recommended bust circumference by fabric width. This allows for a generous amount of ease.

Recommended fabric widths:

110cm - 115cm / 43" - 45" : 140cm / 55"

120cm - 150cm / 47" - 59" : 95cm / 37.5"

You will need: This top requires bias binding strips for the neck binding and ties. You can either buy this by the meter in a light weight contrast fabric OR if you want these to match the main fabric allow for an extra length of fabric and cut your own.

The total lengths of bias strips you will need are:

BINDING - 4cm x 260cm / 1.5” x 103”

TIES - 2.5cm x 330cm / 1” x 130”

Recommended Tools: Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

Techniques used: Gathers, binding, rouleau ties.

PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. 

We love working with the Zero Waste method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns: Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!

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